James
L. Parrish has been involved with routine and exceptional repair and
maintenance of the Ludlow Typograph since the early 1950’s. Jim Passed away in August of 2004. He is greatly missed today. He has prepared the copyrighted article below
to give advice to the novice on what to look for when purchasing a Ludlow
machine. Jim is the author of “THE
LUDLOW TROUBLE-SHOOTING GUIDE” – 129 pages fully illustrated - $75.00 U.S.
It is very difficult in short form
to advise a potential seller or purchaser of Ludlow equipment of all the
important factors to consider. Price
generally is the most important consideration.
It also is the most difficult factor to establish.
A good Ludlow can be bought from an
anxious seller for $300.00 to $750.00.
Best buys are from large companies which consider the equipment surplus
and want to be rid of it.
Most of us have a tendency to think
only of the machine, not realizing it is a “system” and its market value is
better established by what is with the machine.
These items include:
n Typeface
selection. Matrices are a most
important consideration as to cost and use.
While the machine may be available at an attractive price, purchase may
not be wise if accompanying mats are not proper for your intended use. Most small fonts (6 through 18 points) are in
demand and generally sell on the open market for $300.00 or more if in good
condition. Larger fonts can be found for
$35.00 to $150.00 each.
n Cleaning
Kit. This is an absolute requirement
for machine operation. One should avoid
buying from a seller who plans to continue using other Ludlow machines. He may have several machines but only one
cleaning kit: a new kit cost several
hundred dollars.
n Spare
Parts. Replacement parts and
supplies can be quite expensive. The
seller may place little value on extra parts, but a well stocked parts drawer
represents tremendous value to the buyer.
n The
machine. Don’t consider buying a
machine without prior inspection. This
should include complete electrical tests of each heater and control component,
physical examination of each cam, lever and gear and – if possible – operation
of the machine under power.
n Mold
and cooling system. Turn on the
motor and observe the water flow. On the
Model L this can be observed by lifting the lid on the rear of the water
tank. The Model M requires loosening of
a fitting at the mold before turning the motor on to insure flow. Hold a cup or can under the loosened fitting
to catch any water that hopefully comes out.
Retighten the fitting. Next cast
a line and listen for a sizzle when the mouthpiece contacts the mold. This would indicate a water leak on the
bottom of the mold where its two components join.
Cast three of four lines using
re-cast. Lift the top and feel the
surface of the mold. Both left and right
sides of the mold should equally cool.
If the left side remains hot, a water flow problem is indicated. If the mold is not seriously damaged
otherwise, this can be repaired for about $150.00.
n Plunger. Observe its movement and its sound when a
cast is made. It should drop about ¾ of an inch and stop with a definite
“thump”. If it seems “mushy” and drops
further, serious wear is indicated.
Replacement will cost about $175.00.
n Mouthpiece. With the motor turned off, thoroughly clean
the top surface of the mouthpiece with a stiff wire brush. The vents (horizontal indentations on each
side of the slot) should be clearly defined.
These vents allow air to escape before any molten metal can be
pumped. If the mouthpiece is worn, the
vents will not function in direct proportion to the wear. A replacement will cost about $350.00. Used mouthpieces are available for $100.00
and up but check before purchasing.
Inspect for vent definition.
Measure the T-head. It should
measure at least .315. If it is less
than .310 then the machine cannot be adjusted to compensate.
n Machine
models Most comments relate to models L and M. I don’t have enough experience with the newer
Model “N”. Introduced in the mid 80’s,
but it never got off the ground.
Model L: Slanted
table top, equipped with a five-gallon water tank on lower left end of machine
frame. Single crucible thermostat. Rheostat control for the throat/mouthpiece
located above the electrical panel on the rear of the machine. Plunger has single spring. Original paint: dark blue/gray. Best buy: serial number 12300 and up. Good buy:
10200 to 12300.
Very old machines have square
electrical panel box; electrical components almost impossible to replace. Most have a “hole type” mouthpiece similar to
a Linotype and cannot be converted to the superior slotted type with
funnel. Manufactured prior to 1932 with
serial number under 3200.
Later models (serial numbers 3300 to
10100) have a slotted mouthpiece and a rectangular (vertical) electrical panel
box. The panel cover has a rounded top
and top corners. This panel includes two
black resistors located above the fuses.
These resistors control the on/off position of the heavy duty magnetic
relay (crucible heat) located at the top of the panel and are, in turn,
controlled by the thermostat. All
electrical components are hard to get and very expensive.
Later models (serial numbers 12300
and up), have simplified electrical system in a rectangular panel box. This panel cover has square corners.
NOTE: Any serial preceded by a ZERO indicates the
machine has been factory rebuilt. This
could mean a machine with a low serial number has been updated and may still be
a good buy.
MODEL M: Flat (level)
top with one or two lock-down knobs, self-contained refrigerated 2.5 gallon
water cooler separate from machine. Dual
thermostat, controls two magnetic relays located in the electrical panel
box. Two plunger springs. Original paint: light mottled gray. Best buy:
serial numbers 16000 to 16500, made from 1965 to 1966. These have a rear table latch. Good buy:
serial numbers 16600 to 17900, made from 1966 to 1968. These have no rear table latch. Poor buy:
serial numbers 18000 and up.
These machines do not have a crucible spring (a large heavy-duty spring
at the front of the crucible above the cam rollers). This design flaw results in seriously worn
cams and a rapid deterioration of the machine in general. If wear has not been excessive, the missing
spring can be added for about $75.00, thus eliminating the flaw.
n Electrical
configuration. Most Ludlow
machines were wired for 240-volt service.
If installed on a 208-volt service, they will require nearly twice as
much time to heat up and the controls will deteriorate quickly. A normal melt out time is 45 minutes.
n Gas
pots. These are relatively
rare. If a gas machine has been well
maintained, it is probably a good buy at a practical price. Gas-fired machines can be difficult to
operate but are more trouble-free and less expensive to maintain. Be sure your orifice is correct for the gas
you will be using. Most often commercial
areas have natural gas: it is a simple
procedure to change an orifice for the use of propane gas.